When we converse about the biodynamic in Champagne, impossible not to talk about Champagne Fleury, a family estate on the Côte des Bar that pioneered the viticultural approach. It’s been 30 years that the estate turned the corner without ever looking back ; A source of great pride for Jean-Pierre Fleury and his children Morgane, Jean-Sébastien and Benoît, who work hand in hand these preserved lands. Today, Champagne Fleury is among the greats and has nothing to envy to the Big Houses. The wines are produced according to the laws of living and are the pure expression of the message of their terroir and nature.
INEFFABLE CHARM OF THE MERIDIONAL CHAMPAGNE
A 4 generation family estate located on the outskirts of the village Courteron, in southern Champagne in the Côte des Bar, the Fleury House was founded after the phylloxera crisis by Émile Fleury in 1895. Jean-Pierre Fleury and his children are now watching over the estate’s 15 hectares of vines, divided into 10 plots on the Kimmeridgian and Upper Oxfordian clay-limestone hillsides.
Veritable emblem of the biodynamic approach and pioneer in the matter – since 1989 -, the choice to turn to a respectful viticulture had been taken well before that as the organic conversion began it from 1970. And for the Fleury family, it has never been a question of trends, but of a deep respect for nature and the terroir. Today, the estate has no less than 4 organic and biodynamic labels – Ecocert, Demeter, Biodyvin et Organic Agriculture (AB) – attesting of the love of the winegrowers show to their lands. The motto of the family, “The art of being natural”, is more than just a slogan, it is a real lifestyle.
In the cellar, Jean-Sébastien and Benoît vinify the wines in line with the philosophy applied in the vineyard : yeasts are selected from the vines. Pinot Noir (85%), Chardonnay, but also Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are vinified with gentleness and love to craft tasty and vibrant wines. Therefore, the wine approach respects the same concern for preserve terroir and the living, expressing each individuality for a true journey to the heart of the terroir of the Côte des Bar. The wines are generous, expressive and of great purity, but above all they are living wines. As for the tasting, it leaves little to doubt as to the benefits of the estate’s natural approach.
CUVÉE BLANC DE NOIRS
A Blanc de Noirs made exclusively from Pinot Noirs from vines of around 25 years old planted in a marl terroir from the Côtes des Bar. After a gentle press, the vinification is done in enamelled vats, as well as in casks to bring a delicate and elegant complexity. The malolactic fermentation is carried out and a dosage of 6g / L balances the whole. .
To the eye, the color is a straw gold with pale yellow hints. The nose already carries the minerality of the terroir with a nice grip and lots of freshness. It expresses intense and fruity notes of date, blackcurrant and honey. The wine brings to the palate richness, smoothness and suppleness for a great moment of pleasure with great balance. The liveliness highlights the floral notes of old rose as well as a distinguished, subtle and vinous character.
THE COFFEE PAIRING
The Cold Brew technique – the coffee tasting
The tasting of Volcan Azul coffee from Costa Rica in Cold Brew reveals a nuanced topaz color, in a very British spirit evoking a fireplace and cigar atmosphere.
The nose reveals a large aromatic range with gourmet notes of cocoa. The character is rather woody, smoky with a very sunny and fiery side. The nose reveals as well aromas of dates, fleshy fruits, roasted chestnuts, as well as vegetable notes highlighted by a peaty freshness. The palate offers same woody and spicy character seized on the nose. It unveils as well a very elegant salt and sapid side.
Result of the pairing
A harmony of freshness and lightness.
The champagne brings even more freshness and balance. An ample pairing with a softy side which brings out a pleasant unexpected bitterness in the wine. Perfect as an aperitif!